Article: Outside on diving in Indonesia

Bucky MacMahon writes for Outside magazine about scuba diving in Raja Ampat, Indonesia. MacMahon spent ten days in Indonesia in 2008 with a group of donors to and members of Seacology, an environmental group that focuses on protecting islands and their territorial waters. Raja Ampat is the perfect location for a group of environmentalists and benefactors of the environment to ponder how we can preserve the world’s oceans – as MacMahon points out,

Raja Ampat, after all, is the final frontier, one of the least fished, least populated, healthiest marine environments on the planet. It’s also a place where worlds collide—politically, geographically, ethnologically, zoologically—every which way at once. Located just east of the famed Wallace Line (named for the great 19th-century naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace), which separates the fauna of southern Asia from that of Australasia, the archipelago is part of the 131,000-square-mile transition zone known to modern biogeographers as Wallacea. Scientists call Raja Ampat “the epicenter of marine biodiversity,” where there are a number of endemics and where new species are discovered nearly every time a marine biologist straps on a tank. Properly protected, it could serve as a kind of evolutionary laboratory and maritime seed bank to jump-start recovery for the whole region and, potentially, in a pinch, the world.

Raja Ampat is one of the world’s most alluring dive destinations – it is on almost every dive traveller’s bucket list. The diversity of life – corals as well as fish and invertebrates – is unparalleled. The waters around the four islands that make up the region are washed by such strong currents that they have been mistaken for ships in motion when viewed from the sky, each with a wake trailing behind it. Raja Ampat is remote and, as yet, relatively untouched.

Sylvia Earle, wonderful lady of the oceans, was on the trip that MacMahon describes. She urged her fellow travellers to understand that the next ten years (and this was as true in 2008 as it is today) are the most critical  for the future of our oceans – “We’ve got a limited time to make a difference.” She was speaking to a group of Silicon valley millionaires, philanthropists and trust-fund kids, but her message is as important to you and me as it was to them. Not having large material means is no excuse to do nothing.

Read the full article here.

 

Lecture: Mark Meekan on whale sharks

The Save Our Seas Shark Centre in Kalk Bay has been a hotbed of activity in recent weeks, with a double-whammy of shark-related talks in one week. The “brains trust” of Save Our Seas about – scientists Sarah Fowler, Alison Kock and Mark Meekan, as well as co-CEOs Peter Verhoog and Georgina Wiersma – were all in town and Sarah Fowler and Mark Meekan gave talks on their respective areas of interest. You can find a report on Sarah Fowler’s talk here.

According to Christopher Neff, who introduced Mark Meekan, Dr Meekan describes himself as a “fish biologist”. The rest of the world knows him as the world’s foremost whale shark researcher. He is a researcher at the Australian Institute of Marine Science, on the research team of the ARC Centre of Excellence for Coral Reef Studies. He is a scientist at Save Our Seas and also a member of the National Shark Recovery Group convened by the Australian government department of the environment.

Dr Meekan is involved in several research projects, but the one he spoke about at Save Our Seas was the natural history of whale sharks, and his study of the whale sharks at Ningaloo Reef in western Australia.

A whale shark photographed at Kev's Ledge off Ponta do Ouro
A whale shark photographed at Kev's Ledge off Ponta do Ouro

Natural history

The whale shark, Rhincodon typus, is the largest fish in the sea, and one of three filter feeding sharks, the others being the megamouth and the basking shark. Basking sharks frequent cooler, temperate waters, whereas whale sharks are commonly seen in tropical oceans. The megamouth is a very rare, deep water species. The Mozambique channel is a hotspot for whale sharks, and they are seasonally seen of KwaZulu-Natal and at Mozambique dive sites. The sharks are able to be identified using the pattern of spots and stripes on their bodies.

Whale shark markings
Whale shark markings

Whale sharks have about 3,000 tiny teeth, but feed using a method called ram filter feeding – they swim forwards with their mouths gaping open, or gulp at aggregations of food. Water entering the mouth passes over the gills, allowing them to breathe, and a bolus of food forms which they swallow all in one go. Sometimes their gill rakers get clogged when they are swimming through a particularly dense food aggregation, and the sharks cough in order to expel the excess food. Tony and a group of divers witnessed this once in Ponta do Ouro, Mozambique, and he says that one lady was convinced that the brownish-red substance coming out of the whale shark’s mouth as it coughed was microscopic remains of a scuba diver that the shark had just eaten. The substance was, in fact, plankton and not scuba diver mincemeat, and a whale shark couldn’t eat a diver if he tried!

The first identified whale shark was seen in Cape Town in 1828, after being harpooned in Table Bay. Until 1988 there had only been a total of about 35 sightings of these massive fish (they can grow to up to 20 metres in length), but since then the discovery of various locations (such as off South Africa’s east coast, Belize, Honduras, Ningaloo Reef off Australia, Madagascar, Mozambique, Mexico and the Galapagos Islands), where they gather to breed and feed has occurred, and sightings – and our scientific knowledge of the creature – have ballooned.

Whale sharks have a varied diet, including coral spawn, copepods, sardines, squid, anchovies, mackerel, tuna, albacore, and spawning aggregations of red crabs (such as the one that occurs at Christmas Island), snapper and lantern fish. This video of a whale shark being fed at Okinawa Aquarium shows their gulping behaviour; a bag of plankton is being released at the surface for the shark to eat.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrrmpHWFaEc]

Reproduction

Only one pregnant female has ever been examined, after being fished in the late 1980s. She had (read this carefully – it’s mind boggling!) 300 pups in her uterus, of various ages. Subsequent genetic studies performed on fifteen of the pups (in 2010 – the pups had been frozen for storage in a solid block of ice referred to by Dr Meekan as “the pupsicle”) indicated that they all had the same father, despite being of various sizes. This indicates that female whale sharks are able to store sperm after a fertilisation event, and exhibit aplacental viviparity (apparently a replacement term for what I learned at school, ovovivipary), meaning that they deliver live young. Massive, pregnant females are apparently often seen in the aggregations that occur in the Galapagos Islands.

Whale shark pups have been seen off Pakistan, in markets in the Philippines, and off the Azores. It is presumed that these sharks deliver their young in productive (green! like our local seas in the Cape) waters. When the sharks reach 2-3 metres they head to one of the inshore feeding aggregations mentioned above. Once they’ve grown some more, they simply vanish… into the open ocean. Very large specimens are almost never seen.

4 metre long whale shark in Mozambique
4 metre long whale shark in Mozambique

Threats

Whale shark meat sells for US$13 per kilogram in Taiwan, which means that a 36 tonne shark would be worth about US$200,000. They are known as the “tofu fish” because of the texture of their meat. There is a picture here (scroll down) of a cross-section of a whale shark that shows how dense its muscle is. Dr Meekan showed us this image and pointed out how little of its muscle is dark red (think of a tuna fish), fast twitch muscle. The top speed of a whale shark is only about 5 kilometres per hour.

Whale sharks are protected in the Maldives (1995), the Philippines (1998), Honduras (1999), Belize (2000), Australia (2001), India (2001), and by CITES. Not yet in South Africa. Whale shark fins are used as signage – giant banners or displays – outside Asian restaurants that serve shark fin soup. The organisation Traffic got whale shark fishing stopped in Taiwan (I may have misheard this – it sounds unlikely given east Asian predilections for eating fish regardless of its conservation status, and I can’t verify it), and the Indian whale shark fishery has also been shut down. Many other fisheries remain, however, in small coastal villages such as the ones on Pamilacal Island, where villagers exploit the seasonal whale shark migrations. Dr Meekan believes that with a bit of effort and education, these fisheries can be replaced by profitable (to the villagers) eco-tourism ventures, which will value the whale sharks while they are alive.

The Ningaloo project

The whale sharks observed at Ningaloo – a population of about 500 – are mostly (80%) juvenile males about 5-7 metres long. 10% are females, and the remaining fraction can’t be identified quickly enough (one has to get underneath the shark to tell if it’s male or female). There is a thriving eco-tourist business that charges visitors about $350 for a swim with the whale sharks. A highly significant decline in the size of the sharks observed by tourist boats (from an average of 7 metres in 1995 to a current 5.5 metres) has been observed, which seems to indicate that larger individuals are still being fished elsewhere.

The research team at Ningaloo have used pop-up archival tags (like the ones used locally on bull sharks) to track the movements of the local whale sharks. These tags, which cost about $5000 each, measure light intensity, temperature, depth and other data. They have an onboard clock, and a timed burn wire causes the tag to pop free of the shark after a predetermined time. When it surfaces, it transmits its location to a satellite. The rest of the data on the tag must be recovered directly from the tag, so the team must get hold of the tag in order to download it. Using the light and time data, clever software is able to determine where in the world the shark was when it was on the surface.

The other kind of tag used is called a splash tag, which broadcasts its location to a satellite every time the shark surfaces. Using a light plane to spot the sharks, and a small boat, about 30 sharks have been tagged. From Ningaloo the sharks move in one of three directions: towards Sri Lanka (Indian Ocean), into south east Asia, or towards Indonesia. During the day the sharks frequently dive to upwards of 400 metres, but spend a lot of time on the surface. In the evening they spend a lot of time at about 100 metres, probably feeding on the plankton that migrates upwards in the water column at night.

There are many mysteries, which always delight (and frustrate) me. One is the staggered surfacing technique that some of the whales display on dives. They descend to several hundred metres’ depth, but then ascend some distance, descend again a little bit, and repeat the process, giving a jagged dive profile that would give a divemaster a serious headache!

Whale shark in Mozambique
Whale shark in Mozambique

The largest creatures on earth – whales, whale sharks, basking sharks (second largest fish) eat the smallest prey. How do they survive? One of the questions that the Ningaloo researchers seek to answer is to explain this apparent paradox, with reference to whale sharks. Survival for them is an acute problem. They live in oligotrophic waters – clean, clear water with little nourishment available. Their metabolic rate is regulated by the temperature of the water they are in, and since they’re in warm seas most of the time, it’s high – meaning they need to eat a lot. Their ram filtration and gulping method of feeding uses a lot of energy.

With this question in mind, the researchers have used a bio-logging approach, with a video/data recorder that is attached to the whale shark and pops off after 24 hours. They found that the whale shark spends up to 20% of its time gliding, compared with active swimming (i.e. using the momentum from prior fin strokes). Its dives are asymmetric, with steep ascents and lazy, slow descents that allow it more time to search for food and consume it while expending very little energy. They also conserve energy by swimming at a slow, constant rate rather than executing many sharp, sudden changes of velocity.

Here’s a news story on Dr Meekan and his research.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZi509qt0R0&w=540]

Dr Meekan hopes that the findings at Ningaloo and elsewhere will indicate a resident population of whale sharks. He is not very positive about the chances of the species should they migrate anywhere near the eastern or western parts of the African continent, and a resident population that doesn’t move about too much on the coast of a first world country would improve their chances of survival. I hope that South Africa is soon able to formally institute measures to protect whale sharks, as an example to the rest of the continent.

People: Errand Girl

One of our divers, Bernita, has started a small business called Errand Girl, and we thought we would give her the opportunity to tell you a little about herself and what she does:

I consider myself an avid diver, although I’m sure Tony will tell you otherwise as I’ve not been in the water much of late!I started diving in Honduras in 2003 and have more or less been hooked ever since. In 2005 I traveled to Thailand where I did my Advanced course and fun dive after fun dive. Eventually my Thai visa expired, forcing me to travel to neighboring Malaysia, where I found the most beautiful rustic island I could have imagined (the Perhentian Islands) and set up home base there. I did my Rescue and Divemaster courses and worked as a Divemaster for two years. Finally I decided to take the next step and become an Instructor (I did my IDC at FloraBay Dive Center). I spent the better part of 6 years in South East Asia, working in the industry, or going on dive holidays (some people call me a “dive-dork” but I don’t mind, ‘cos it’s true).

I decided though, in June last year, that it was time to move back to Cape Town, mostly to be near to my family. I still wonder what I was thinking, giving up a life filled with beaches, sunshine and diving, but nonetheless, here I am.Initially I returned to the advertising industry, but recently decided that an office job was just too much for me to bear. So I decided to start a small business that would keep me on my toes and take me out and about. Hence, the birth of Errand Girl.

Here is some information Bernita’s business:

Errand Girl is a lifestyle management and concierge company. We aim to give you the ultimate gift: more free time to do with as you please! We offer a helping hand, making sure all those to-do’s get done, so you don’t have to think about them again. If you don’t have the time or inclination to attend to a task, we will take care of it entirely.

The list of services we offer is vast and tailored to each client’s needs: Errand Girl can drop your lawn mower at the repair shop, pop into Woolies for the forgotten groceries, gather quotes for that long awaited irrigation system, collect a birth certificate from Home Affairs, meet the plumber mid-morning to repair the burst geezer, find a fairy for your daughter’s birthday party, pay your traffic fines – we can send, phone, research, find, quote, arrange, meet, collect and deliver – you name it and we’ll do it.

Errand Girl charges an hourly rate for services rendered (excluding expenses incurred and petrol outside of the Cape Town CBD area). We send you a monthly statement reflecting how and when your time and money as been spent. We do not charge a commission on purchases or services sourced.

If you are interested to learn more about what Errand Girl offers please go to my website, www.errandgirl.co.za.

Bernita checks out a wall in the chilly Atlantic
Bernita checks out a wall in the chilly Atlantic

Bernita also told us about some of her favourite diving in South East Asia (which makes me want to pack my dive gear and hop on a plane right away!). Here are her recommendations:

I wanted to tell you about a couple of my favorite Asian dive spots, but its too difficult to name just one so here’s a short(ish) list:

  • Malapascua (Philippines): Here they have almost daily sightings of thresher sharks and regular visits from manta rays and eagle rays. There is also great macro diving there, although the fish population is small and coral reefs have fallen victim to dynamite fishing.
  • Apo Island (Philippines): A very well managed marine park with huge populations of fish, sharks and rays and pristine reef.
  • Coron (Philippines): This place is unique in that an entire fleet of World War II Japanese ships was sunk in this bay so this is a wreck diver’s dream destination. The dive operators there allow full wreck penetration and the ships still have a lot of equipment and artifacts to see. There is also lots of fish life at these wrecks. Also very cool is Barracuda Lake (which houses no barracuda or other fish for that matter?!) but is cool because the top 6 metres consists of cold fresh water, then from 6-18 metres is warm (28 degree) salt water and below that from 18-30 metres is hot (37 degree) salt water. At 30 metres the water turns literally black- if you stick your hand below the 30m mark it disappears. I found it cool to see the thermoclines in otherwise clear still water and to feel the heat on the way down and the cold on the way up (I would advise definitely not to wear a wetsuit). You do however have a short climb up a limestone rock face, dive gear and all in order to dive here. I thought it was well worth it!
  • Komodo National Park (Indonesia): “Wild” diving with some crazy currents but amazing sightings. Loads of sharks (black tip reef, white tip, grey reef), dolphins, manta rays, as well as excellent macro dives. Another great thing about diving in the area is the opportunity to see Komodo dragons in the wild. I did a liveaboard in this area, which I can highly recommend as land based diving here requires long boat journeys and grotty hotel accommodation.
  • Bali (Indonesia):  Bali has a lot of good and varied diving to offer. I dived the USS Liberty wreck in Tulamben. This dive sight is great as its only 30 metres off shore and max depth is 30 metres. The visibility is generally 15+ metres and the wreck is home to a huge variety of life from pygmy sea horses and ornate ghost pipefish to giant barracuda and schools of surgeon fish. I also dived off Nusa Lombongan and was lucky enough to see quite a few manta rays and sunfish (mola mola).
  • Lembeh Straights (Indonesia): if you like hunting for the weird and wonderful, it just does not get better than this! Lembeh has huge numbers of nudis, wonderpus, flambouyant cuttlefish, blue ringed octopus, pygmy sea horses, bobbit worms, hairy frog fish… the list is literally endless.
  • Sipadan (Malaysian Boreneo): Clear warm waters (visibility of 20+ metres), pristine reefs, loads of fish, turtles and sharks, lots of schooling barracudas and bumphead parrot fish.

(If you’re if heading to Thailand, Indonesia, Philippines or Malaysia and would like advise on dive spots, places to stay, food or other, please email me on bernita@errandgirl.co.za I’ll be happy to help if I can.)

Bernita now braves the relatively cool Cape Peninsula waters as often as her (busy) schedule allows. Why not check out the Errand Girl website to see whether she can help free up some of your time… To go diving of course!