Red Sea 2013 trip report

Me, Christo, Kate and Veronica on the sundeck
Me, Christo, Kate and Veronica on the sundeck

We returned from our Red Sea liveaboard trip on Sunday, and have been slowly returning to normal life (essentially doing things other than eating, sleeping, diving in warm water with magnificent visibility, and lounging around on deck like millionaires). It’s been tough.

Two of the blue o two liveaboards at the jetty
Two of the blue o two liveaboards at the jetty

The itinerary we followed was the Northern Wrecks and Reefs one offered by blue o two. Our vessel was M/Y blue Melody, on the right in the photo above. We dived wrecks like the ThistlegormGiannis D, and Chrisoula K, and a number of reefs. We did a couple of spectacular drift dives, and on most of the wrecks there was the opportunity to go inside for the suitably qualified. It was compulsory to dive with an SMB. The most memorable reef dives were done inside the Ras Mohammed National Park.

Captain Mohammed and Tony on the fly deck
Captain Mohammed and Tony on the fly deck

Life on board the boat had a simple rhythm: dive, eat, sleep, repeat. During surface intervals the crew moved to new sites, and we either dived directly from the liveaboard or were transported short distances (in full kit) on Zodiacs – rubber ducks like the ones we use in Cape Town. During the time we were away, we had the opportunity to do 21 dives of which four were night dives. The diving was spread over six days. We skipped a couple of dives for various reasons including tiredness and illness, but overall managed to do a lot of diving in a short space of time. The warm water and helpfulness of the crew meant that it wasn’t nearly as physically taxing as you’d imagine. We used Nitrox throughout, not so much because we were doing particularly deep dives and needed the extra time (though it certainly helped), but for overall health reasons and to minimise fatigue.

Bluff Point
Bluff Point

Most of the time we were within sight of land. The landscape is mainly desert, with spectacular sunrises and sunsets. The reefs rise to within a few feet of the surface, and are clearly visible from the boat when it isn’t moving. Navigation in the Red Sea must be very tricky for the inexperienced, however. The number of spectacular wrecks is testament to this!

Sunset over the Red Sea
Sunset over the Red Sea

The day we arrived in Egypt and the day of our departure were mostly spent at the Marriott Hotel in Hurghada, waiting to board our vessel (the first day) and the plane (the last day). We lounged by the pool and checked out the private beach there, and felt very relaxed.

Prior to the trip we had some (understandable) concerns regarding the safety of travelling through Egypt to get to the liveaboard, but we kept tabs on the travel advice provided by the Foreign and Commonwealth Office of the UK. Since we would merely be in transit through Cairo airport, and would not actually be sleeping a single night on land, we were happy to go ahead with the trip. The Red Sea coastal area has been extremely calm throughout the recent unrest, and, as it derives 95% of its revenue from tourism, the locals have been keen to keep it that way.

The beach at the Marriott Hotel in Hurghada
The beach at the Marriott Hotel in Hurghada

We took a lot of photo and video on the trip, and will be sorting through it and sharing it over the next couple of months. Watch this space!

Newsletter: Dates to diarise

Hi divers

We are off travelling for ten days, so this week’s newsletter is a list of dates to diarise!

The photos in this newsletter are from a lovely deep dive for an Advanced course that we did at Outer Photographer’s Reef on Saturday, followed by a dive at Phoenix Shoal just outside the harbour in Simon’s Town. There are some videos from the Outer Photographer’s Reef dive here. The visibility on both dives was 6-8 metres, but yesterday it had improved to 10 metres at Seal Rock and Shark Alley (no cowsharks though).

Anemones at Outer Photographer's Reef
Anemones at Outer Photographer’s Reef

ScubaPro Day – Saturday 26 October

The ScubaPro Day takes place at False Bay Yacht Club on Saturday 26 October. Discounted boat dives and the chance to try some dive gear (tips on that here) – the participating dive charters will take bookings directly. There are four launch times, starting nice and early. Underwater Explorers is participating if you’re at a loose end!

Diversnight International – Thursday 7 November

November 7th is Diversnight International, sign up here. It is an international event with the aim of having as many divers in the water as possible at 8.13pm (2013 – get it?). If you enjoy night diving, or want to try it out, then you should be there. It’s quite festive. More details about this event will be provided when we get back from the Red Sea!

DAN Day – Saturday 9 November

We attended the last DAN day in Cape Town, which comprised a tour of the SA Navy diving facility, and a series of excellent talks by DAN medics and the NSRI. The next one is on Saturday 9 November, and comes highly recommended. Early booking is essential (the last one was fully subscribed) – more info here.

Strawberry anemones
Strawberry anemones

regards

Tony Lindeque
076 817 1099
www.learntodivetoday.co.za
www.learntodivetoday.co.za/blog/

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Newsletter: View from the top

Hi divers

Weekend plans

The weekend forecast is for rain on Saturday and partly cloudy weather on Sunday. I am sensitive to water and would prefer not to dive in the rain so our plan is to launch on Sunday, heading to Outer Photographer’s Reef and Phoenix Shoal, launching from False Bay Yacht Club 10 am and 12 am.

Summer is coming but we are not quite there yet so a jacket was still required on the boat today. Despite the south easter that has blown the past week, False Bay is surprisingly clean. I took a trip out today and the further out in the Bay I went the cleaner it got. Estimates at Seal Island from the cage divers was 12 metre visibility.

View of Fish Hoek from Contour Road
View of Fish Hoek from Contour Road

Upcoming events

November 7th is Diversnight International, sign up here. It is an international event with the aim of having as many divers in the water as possible at 8.13pm. We will confirm the dive site once I’ve checked tides and got permission if necessary. There will be cake.

Our long planned Red Sea trip is going ahead next week; we leave on Thursday next week. There will most likely not be a newsletter for a week or two. While we’re away (or technically on our way back), the ScubaPro Day takes place at False Bay Yacht Club. Discounted boat dives and the chance to try some dive gear (tips on that here) – the participating dive charters will take bookings directly.

regards

Tony Lindeque
076 817 1099
www.learntodivetoday.co.za
www.learntodivetoday.co.za/blog/

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Bookshelf: Red Sea Diver’s Guide, Volume 2: From Sharm el Sheikh to Hurghada

Red Sea Diver’s Guide, Volume 2: From Sharm el Sheikh to Hurghada – Shlomo & Roni Cohen

Red Sea Diver's Guide, Volume 2: From Sharm el Sheikh to Hurghada
Red Sea Diver’s Guide, Volume 2: From Sharm el Sheikh to Hurghada

We’re off to the Red Sea in October, and on the advice of Ned Middleton, author of Shipwrecks from the Egyptian Red Sea, I got hold of this book (which was in itself quite a performance), as he rates it very highly among the proliferation of guidebooks about the area. I did a lot of searching on my own before capitulating and following Middleton’s advice, and was unimpressed by the number of books with lightweight overviews of the dive sites, pictures that were sourced from stock photo banks, and authors who haven’t even dived the areas in question.

If you plan to get hold of this book, Middleton’s review on Amazon.com highlights the errors it contains (some shipwrecks are named incorrectly, for example), which is important if you plan to dive the area. If you plan to dive the Red Sea and are looking for a reference book, this list contains some books to avoid, and this one lists some reputable guides.

The Cohens’ book was published in 1994, and at that stage, having dived in the Egyptian Red Sea for years, they could already observe deterioration in the reefs and a decline in the number of sharks and large fish. The nature of most dive sites, however, is such that their topography usually does not change appreciably with time, particularly in relatively sheltered waters. The book includes a number of maps, some of which are clever combinations of aerial photographs and semi-transparent overlays marking the pertinent landmarks and routes.

Both boat and shore dives are featured here, and with respect to the shore dives the Cohens’ layout and style reminded me very much of the excellent book we used when we visited Malta in 2011: Scuba Diving Malta – Gozo – Comino. There is enough information for a shore diver to be fairly self sufficient, although I would check the locations of hyperbaric chambers, filling stations, dive centres and other amenities as they may have changed (and increased in number) in the last 20 years. Live aboard diving was in its infancy in 1994, but was growing in popularity and the Cohens refer to it more than once in this volume.

Towards the back of the book there is a fish identification guide, which could be handy if you don’t have space to pack an additional fish ID book in your luggage. The book also came with a separate fold-out map of the northern Red Sea area.

You can get the book (probably) here. If you do look elsewhere for it, make sure you’re getting an English edition, as the German edition is much easier to find and looks practically identical. Caveat emptor!

Newsletter: Fields of fish

Hi divers

It’s winter so not as many people dive as they do in summer, but the week’s diving has been good with little or no swell and clean water at around 15 degrees. We had lovely conditions at the infrequently-dived wreck of the Brunswick last Saturday, before the rain came, and equally good conditions at Long Beach yesterday. There are some photos on facebook here and here. If you haven’t liked our facebook page already, please do – you can keep up to date with what we’re up to. We post photos regularly and try to do a visibility report whenever we dive.

Fish and box jellies at Long Beach
Fish and box jellies at Long Beach

For once the weekend weather and dive plan is an easy call. Both days look exceptionally good and the bay is quite clean and calm right now. We are attending the DAN Cape Town event on Saturday so there will be no diving, but we will launch on Sunday to do qualifying dives for Open Water students. We will launch from the Yacht Club in Simon’s Town and the plan will be to visit Photographer’s Reef and the cowsharks.

Anemone on the Brunswick
Anemone on the Brunswick

Please remember your MPA permits. If you plan to come diving, check that yours is valid. If you don’t have one (or if it’s expired), head down to the post office with your ID book and about R100 and ask for a “scuba diving permit”. We dive a lot inside the marine protected area, for which you need a permit.

Wreckage of the Brunswick
Wreckage of the Brunswick

Our Red Sea trip is in October (17-26th). There are still one or two spaces on the liveaboard if you feel like a last minute (almost) holiday, but it’s almost full. We’ll do a local trip (to Sodwana or Durban) again in the new year so don’t worry if you miss out!

regards

Tony Lindeque
076 817 1099
www.learntodivetoday.co.za
www.learntodivetoday.co.za/blog/

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Newsletter: Getting wet

Hi divers

It has been a lean week with very few opportunities to go diving. Last weekend was no better. I spent Friday out on the bay in very misty grey conditions and the weekend was just too windy and rainy. A consolation for the wet and wintry weather has been the presence of a very relaxed pod of dolphins in Fish Hoek Bay and Mackerel Bay (where the wreck of the Clan Stuart is) for most of this week.

Ark Rock in the mist on Friday
Ark Rock in the mist on Friday

This weekend sees the arrival of some wet weather, some wind and a host of conflicting reports of a huge swell. Earlier this week the swell was predicted to be close to 10 metres. Some weather sites still predict 7-8 metres but only arriving on Monday. Some sites claim there is a 4 metre swell in the bay right now but that is not there. I drove down the coast this afternoon looking.

Dolphins near the Clan Stuart
Dolphins near the Clan Stuart

Anyway, regardless of who is and isn’t correct with the predictions, the wind and pouring rain will most certainly keep me from diving this weekend, and whether the swell is 4 or 10 metres, it’s going to be big. Sorry about that!

Travel

When the weather is this bad it helps to plan a trip to warmer waters to take your mind off how wet your socks are. We’re off to Durban on 17 June – if you act fast you can still join us – and the Red Sea in October. Let me know if you want more information on either trip.

regards

Tony Lindeque
076 817 1099
www.learntodivetoday.co.za
www.learntodivetoday.co.za/blog/

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Newsletter: All aboard!

Hi divers

Summer winds are fading and winter winds are slowly starting to arrive. The visibility of the Atlantic sites drops off and the water in False bay gets cleaner and cleaner as if pumped through a filter. A whole new range of creatures start to make an appearance while other creatures hide somewhere warmer. There are still several giant short tail stingrays hanging around at Miller’s Point, where the fishing boats drop the fish guts overboard near the slipway.

Ray at the slipway
Ray at the slipway

Many people feel it’s too cold to dive in winter… It is cold for sure, but with the right gear and on the right days, winter diving in Cape Town beats anything summer can come up with. Currently False Bay is clean and the temperature is around  15-16 degrees. By adding a shorty, decent gloves and a thicker hoodie you are all set. Dry suits, or damp suits as I call them, do also work, when they work. I don’t sell gear but I am very happy to give advice on whether a deal is a deal or a rip off!

Sevengill cowshark
Sevengill cowshark

We had fair conditions last weekend and dived with the sevengill cowsharks (thanks to Tamsyn again for the awesome photo!) and the seals on Sunday. It was surgy and the viz wasn’t the best but Shark Alley was swarming with sharks. Unfortunately the seals didn’t want to come and play because of the swell. Fortunately the reef around Partridge Point is stunning! The wind has been north and west a few days this week and the visibility has improved.

Weekend plans

As for the weekend – tomorrow looks the best, but Saturday could work for one launch to Tivoli Pinnacles or an early double tank dive to Atlantis and Outer Castle.  The wind comes up very strongly around lunchtime so we want to be out of the water early. Sunday will be wetter on the surface than it will below so I guess it’s a stay at home and watch Formula 1 instead.

As usual text me if you want to dive tomorrow or on Saturday. We are really looking forward to our Durban trip on 17 June, which is getting closer. There is still space on this trip and our Red Sea liveaboard trip in October, so give it some thought and let me know if you want more information.

One of the divers on the boat two weeks ago took this video of the seal we saw at the slipway. Keep watching right to the end!

regards

Tony Lindeque
076 817 1099
www.learntodivetoday.co.za
www.learntodivetoday.co.za/blog/

Diving is addictive!

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Bookshelf: Shipwrecks from the Egyptian Red Sea

Shipwrecks from the Egyptian Red Sea – Ned Middleton

Shipwrecks from the Egyptian Red Sea
Shipwrecks from the Egyptian Red Sea

We’re off to the Red Sea in October, and I like to know everything about everything before I do anything (one of my annoying characteristics). With that aim for this holiday, I recently read this book by British diver Ned Middleton, which catalogues the vast majority of diveable wrecks in the Egyptian Red Sea, including all the wrecks we’ll dive on in October.

Middleton describes the ships as they were when they sailed the seas, their sinking, and the experience of diving on them. He is more focused on the features of the wrecks than the marine life that encrusts them (which I didn’t mind). He suggests routes around the wrecks, describes penetrating them (where possible), and – because he has dived the area over a period of years – is able to comment on the rate at which the wrecks are decaying. Unfortunately much of the damage observed on the wrecks is the result of souvenir hunting and theft by visiting divers. The impact of dive tourism on the area is keenly felt.

One of the most wonderful features of the book, which lifted it into another realm of quality for me, is the illustrations of the wrecks as they now lie, by artist Rico Oldfield. Working from thousands of photographs, he creates composite paintings of the wrecks on the sea floor. I can stare at them for hours.

As I did with Scuba Diving Malta – Gozo – Comino, I expect to refer to this book numerous times while on holiday in October, as well as afterwards for a reminder of the wrecks we visited. Can’t wait!

You can buy the book here if in South Africa, otherwise here or here.

Newsletter: First breath

Hi divers

We did not plan any dives for last weekend as I suspected conditions were not the best. To make sure I was certain of the decision we dived at Long Beach on Sunday and had perhaps a dim 2 metre viz. Bad idea. Here is a picture I took of myself on that dive, which I think explains it all:

Batman selfie in terrible viz
Batman selfie in terrible viz

This week has been much of the same weather with wind from too many directions to actually fix either the Atlantic or False Bay. Some south east today and not too much tomorrow will maybe improve the Atlantic a bit but I wouldn’t hold my breath. False Bay will most likely be the same 4-6 metre viz but a little (very little) warmer.

Split shot in the pool
Split shot in the pool

Weekend plans

I am shore diving in False Bay tomorrow with students and will launch from Simon’s Town on Saturday to do the qualifying dives for this week’s students. Sunday is wide open and I don’t have a definite plan as such but there is a bunch of people that have not done much diving recently (you know who you are) so I plan to rustle them up and do some of the easier sites such as Ark Rock wrecks and Ark Rock itself. If you want to join us, please text me. Don’t be shy! First timers are welcome. The more the merrier.

Taking a first breath underwater
Taking a first breath underwater

Travel

Don’t forget our travel plans. We’re looking for companions who love diving – anyone can come along. If you want more information on either of these trips let me know:

Durban wrecks and reefs – 17 to 21 June

Red Sea liveaboard – 17 to 26 October.

See you in the water!

regards

Tony Lindeque
076 817 1099
www.learntodivetoday.co.za
www.learntodivetoday.co.za/blog/

Diving is addictive!

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Newsletter: Cry of the fish eagle

Hi divers

We are back from a few days of houseboating on the Knysna lagoon. At high tide the water was clean and 17 -18 degrees. The lagoon is a vibrant and healthy ecosystem and the bird life is amazing. During the early evenings we sat on anchor with a torch and a bucket and caught a multitude of small creatures for a look see and a photo and then returned them to the flowing water. The birdlife highlight of the trip was a pair of resident fish eagles.

Fish eagle pair on the Knysna lagoon
Fish eagle pair on the Knysna lagoon

Dive reports from last weekend were sketchy at best with rumours of 15 metre visibility yet very very little comment on the usual media sites. I have therefore no idea on what the diving was like. I believe yesterday was somewhat better on the far reefs but shore entries apparently had 3 metre viz.

Sunset on the Knysna lagoon
Sunset on the Knysna lagoon

The wind today has been in the right direction to clean the bay but along with the wind and rain is a 6 metre swell. There is some south easterly wind but the temperature in the Atlantic today was 16 degrees, False Bay is 12 degrees, so I doubt it is going to get much better for the weekend. The swell is mostly gone on Sunday but its unlikely (my opinion only) that False Bay will be good after the swell.

Egyptian geese in formation
Egyptian geese in formation

So my plan is to spend Saturday training in the pool and Sunday, well let’s see what things look like late Saturday. (The swell may not peak at 6 metres and may end sooner than forecast.)

Travel

Don’t forget about our Durban dive trip from 17-21 June, and our Red Sea trip in October. If you’d like more details on either of these, give me a shout.

regards

Tony Lindeque
076 817 1099
www.learntodivetoday.co.za
www.learntodivetoday.co.za/blog/

Diving is addictive!