A few days in Knysna

Beaching the ferry in shallow water
Beaching the ferry in shallow water

We were very upset to hear that Lightley’s Houseboats, operating on the Knysna lagoon, went into liquidation last year. Fortunately the boats and licence to operate have been acquired by a lovely Dutch couple who are now operating under the name Knysna Houseboats. We took a short break in late April and spent four nights on a houseboat on the lagoon. The boats have been refurbished, standards have been raised, and the company has moved from the jetty at Belvidere to one in the Thesen Island harbour.

Entrance to the Knysna lagoon from the sea
Entrance to the Knysna lagoon from the sea

Houseboating is the most relaxing kind of holiday you can have; no unexpected visitors, no television (well, we don’t have one of those at home either), no computers (Tony forgot his and didn’t miss it at all), and nowhere particular to go. A skipper’s licence isn’t required to pilot the boats, but you have to go through a half hour course and write a short test before being issued with a temporary licence. The boats have a single 40 hp motor, and ours reached a roaring top speed of 10km/h heading downcurrent.

The last two occasions we’ve visited Knysna we dived in search of seahorses, beneath the Sanparks jetty on Thesen Island. The time to do this is half an hour before high tide, for a couple of reasons. One is that the tidal currents in the lagoon are something fierce; unless you want to do a drift dive out through the Heads, you have to dive near slack water. The other is that the rising tide brings clean seawater into the lagoon, increasing visibility. At low tide (we discovered last time we dived there) the visibility is so bad you can’t see a hand in front of your face. We found seahorses both times we dived in Knysna, but the second time (at low tide) more luck than skill was involved.

This time, high tide fell very early in the morning and in the evening. Because it’s close to winter, days are short, and we’d have had to have dived just before sunrise or just before sunset to coincide with the tide. This seemed like hard (and cold) work. We were on holiday, and lazy, so we left the dive gear at home this time. Hopefully next time we go to Knysna the tides will be in our favour, because I did miss seeing those little critters!

One thing we did do that caused us raucous enjoyment was to sit on the edge of our boat one evening as the tide was going out, with a torch and a plastic salad bowl. The most amazing creatures swam past on the outgoing tide, and with some judicious co-ordination of torch and bowl we were able to catch one or two of them, take their picture, ooh and aah, and then release them back into the lagoon. We saw flatworms, lots of baby sole, shrimps with incredible glowing eyes and almost transparent bodies, and even a small blue fish shaped like a needle that we weren’t quick enough to catch.

Seal beating an octopus

During the day we looked at birds, motored around the lagoon a little bit, read, napped (embarrassingly much), and enjoyed the view. On one occasion we beached the boat and Tony wandered up and down a sandbank, where we could hear the sounds of mudprawns and a host of other creatures living just under the mud exposed by the retreating tide.

Heron on a moored boat
Heron on a moored boat
Geese in formation
Geese in formation

There is currently no dive operator or shop in Knysna, but they seem to open and close frequently. There is an angling and diving club in Knysna, and they can probably refer you to a local diver who can guide you if you want to dive the wreck of the Paquita near the Heads, or one of the other reefs in the area outside the Heads.

Rowing boat on shore
Rowing boat on shore

Article: Smithsonian Magazine on whirlpools

Whirlpools are like giant squid: one feels that they are almost mythical. They have been the subject of stories, legends and poems, and yet they are real and – if you’re lucky – can be seen and visited.

Simon Winchester, author of Atlantic, writes beautifully of a visit to the Corryvreckan whirlpool between the islands of Jura and Scarba, two of the inner Hebridean Islands off Scotland. I’ve read accounts of diving this incredible (and terrifying) water feature in Rod MacDonald’s books, The Darkness Below and Into the Abyss. His interest in this whirlpool was piqued after seeing it marked on a map, and wondering whether it was really a whirlpool, or whether it would be a disillusioning sign that British map making was not all he believed it to be.

He follows this visit with trips to see other whirlpools, and some research into their provenance. The word maelstrom, meaning a large vortex of water, is derived from the name of a whirlpool called Moskstraumen, in the Lofoten archipelago of Norway. This particular system of eddies featured in an Edgar Allan Poe story (A Descent into the Maelstrom).

Whirlpools are the result of winds, tides and currents interacting with underwater topography, generated when great volumes of water are forced over suddenly shallow outcrops of rock. Winchester says:

In other words, whirlpools—the Maelstrom especially, the others most probably—are fluid marine phenomena that have solid submarine causes. There is the pinnacle that rises underneath the Saltstraumen. There is a shelf of rock that rears up in the Corryvreckan. There are shallows that the charts of Norway show south of Lofoten Point. There are ridges of rock under Japan’s Naruto Strait such as to allow a bridge to be built across it. And a number of near-islands loom perilously beneath the keels of such boats as pass beside the international boundary in the tidal estuary that divides the state of Maine from the Canadian province of New Brunswick.

Shallowing, in short, is what it is all about. A narrow passage, a fast-speeding current, howling winds, large tides—and beneath all of these things a sudden, dangerous, confusion-causing shallowing. When these conditions all combine—then the waters begin to eddy and swirl, vortices are formed, immense sounds begin to thunder, spray fills the air, and all around the region notices are posted to warn sailors that to pass through this or that at flood or the ebb is at your direst peril.

Read the full article here. Highly recommended!

Friday poem: The Kraken

What is a kraken? It is a legendary sea monster supposedly found in the seas off Scandinavia and Greenland. The legend probably arose from sightings of giant squid.

Here is an irregular sonnet (it has one extra line, at fifteen) on the subject. Good to read aloud.

The Kraken – Alfred, Lord Tennyson

Below the thunders of the upper deep;
Far, far beneath in the abysmal sea,
His ancient, dreamless, uninvaded sleep
The Kraken sleepeth: faintest sunlights flee
About his shadowy sides: above him swell
Huge sponges of millennial growth and height;
And far away into the sickly light,
From many a wondrous grot and secret cell
Unnumbered and enormous polypi
Winnow with giant arms the slumbering green.
There hath he lain for ages and will lie
Battening upon huge sea-worms in his sleep,
Until the latter fire shall heat the deep;
Then once by man and angels to be seen,
In roaring he shall rise and on the surface die.

Newsletter: Say good bye to the octopi

Hi divers

Six hundred experimental octopus traps have been sunk in False Bay, in an attempt to create a new fishing sector.

Sea Freeze, a Hout Bay-based fishing company, last month deployed seven exploratory octopus long lines between Simon’s Town and Fish Hoek.

Each line is about one kilometre long, with two main buoys on each end. The buoys have radar reflectors and lights and are visible about 500m from the shore.

Ropes weighed down with cement drag the lines down vertically. The traps are placed horizontally along the lines, far beneath the surface of the water.

The above info courtesy False Bay People’s Post. I can only wonder at the risk of entanglement for whales and other large ocean creatures!

Two stroke engines may smoke, but not as much as this navy ship
Two stroke engines may smoke, but not as much as this navy ship

On a lighter note…. Weather and ocean this week have not been too diver friendly and the southeaster blew so hard yesterday I could hardly get out of the harbour in Hout Bay to test the new motors on the boat. The water however was clean and the viz good.

Today I was out in False Bay and the water looked a dark greenish brown colour, very patchy and not great surface conditions. At Photographer’s Reef I could not see the top of the reef when the sonar said it was 4 metres deep. The same at Atlantis and the Brunswick.

There is some northerly and westerly wind coming, but not a lot so I doubt we will have anything better than 5-6 metre viz in False Bay. There is also a little rain in the forecast to contend with. Hout Bay will probably stay clean as the air temperatures for the next few days barely bump the 20 degree mark.

Fitting the new motors to Seahorse
Fitting the new motors to Seahorse

The weekend

There wasn’t much diving last weekend or during this week but there was much boat work to be done and we have replaced both motors, been out twice to test them and I am happy to say all is well again.

We will do a double tank dive on Saturday really early, as I have a family in Stellenbosch expecting me there late afternoon for training. On Sunday we will do two launches, both shallow. Whether it’s False Bay or Hout Bay depends on the conditions we find tomorrow and Saturday.

Back home with fully functional motors!
Back home with fully functional motors!

Travel

We are heading to Durban on the long weekend of 16 June, and staying a few days of the following week. If the weather is favourable we will do a day trip to Aliwal Shoal and if it’s atrocious we will dive the aquarium. We plan to dive some of the interesting wrecks and reefs that Durban has to offer.

We’re booking our Red Sea trip next week. If you’re interested in “accidentally” ending up on the same liveaboard as us, I’ll give you details as soon as it’s finalised…

regards

Tony Lindeque
076 817 1099
www.learntodivetoday.co.za
www.learntodivetoday.co.za/blog/

Diving is addictive!

* If one wants to be pedantic, the plural of octopus is not octopi… But it’ll do!

Article: Outside on Humboldt squid

The Humboldt (or jumbo) squid is a giant (can be over 1.5 metres long), extremely intelligent, ruthless predator that will not hesitate to engage in cannibalistic behaviour. They are named after the Humboldt Current that flows along the west coast of South America. They exist in huge numbers, can swim at up to 24 kilometres per hour – which is very fast in the water – and move about in large shoals. Their skin colour can change rapidly from white to red and back again, and while they prefer deep (over 200 metres) water, they are found in shallower waters too, particularly at night.

Tim Zimmermann wrote an article for Outside about the slightly lunatic (but awesome) sounding Scott Cassell and his work photographing and diving with Humboldt squid in the Sea of Cortez. Cassell is a number of things – counterterrorist specialist, professional trapeze artist, and experienced diver. He has done some cool stuff  and is a character well worth reading about.

Humboldt squid have been aggressive (or boisterous, if you don’t want to anthropomorphise) towards divers, so various precautions are taken when getting in the water with them. Among these are safety lines clipped to the boat so that divers cannot be dragged deeper by a squid pile-on, and the use of fibreglass body armour to protect against the clinging tentacles of the squid. It sounds absolutely thrilling.

Read the full article here.

Newsletter: In from the cold

Hi divers

So 2012 came and went faster than expected and here we are almost halfway through January. Time to plan Easter yet? We had a short, chilly trip to Denmark after Christmas and the pictures in this newsletter are from the aquarium at Tivoli Amusement Park in central Copenhagen. We even saw a piranha!

The tropical tank at Tivoli aquarium in Copenhagen
The tropical tank at Tivoli aquarium in Copenhagen

We did not get a whole lot of good diving days during December and in fact had some days of 1 metre visibility. We have seen the wind turn this week and the bay become slightly cleaner but the last few days have been around 3-4 metre viz in most places. There are claims of better visibility further out in the Bay so if nothing changes dramatically this weekend will be a bit better a diving weekend than the last few.

An octopus at the Tivoli aquarium
An octopus at the Tivoli aquarium

The current water temperature in False Bay is 19-20 degrees and believe it or not the Atlantic (according to a data buoy off Kommetjie) has been just above 20 degrees since 9.00am today. I will spend Saturday doing shore dives, either at Long Beach or Windmill/A Frame, and will launch out of the Yacht Club on Sunday. I think the best bet would be the dive sites around Roman Rock but we will look for the cleanest water. Text me if you want to be on the list for Saturday or Sunday.

A piranha at Tivoli aquarium
A piranha at Tivoli aquarium

We are planning a trip to Aliwal Shoal (near Durban – google it) in April for Advanced divers (you need to be a strong, confident boat diver), and a possible Red Sea trip later in the year. If you have some interest in these then send me a mail I and I will send you a few details.

regards

Tony Lindeque
076 817 1099
www.learntodivetoday.co.za
www.learntodivetoday.co.za/blog/
Diving is addictive!

Article: Orion Magazine on octopus

Octopus on the wall at Atlantis
Octopus on the wall at Atlantis

Georgina Jones shared this article on facebook (it has some uses other than for sharing cat pictures!), and it is a wonderful tour of the natural history of these beguiling, charismatic creatures. They seem to be disproportionately intelligent, able to learn, use tools, play, and even seem to plan ahead in their own way. Part of the octopus’s brain resides in its tentacles (which can be re-grown) – a severed tentacle has been seen to reach for food items and attempt to place them where the octopus’s mouth would be, were the tentacle still attached.

Read the full article here. It’s a fascinating read on the nature of intelligence, even if you aren’t specially intrigued by octopods.

I was reminded of this TED talk by David Gallo, where (at about the 2.00 minute mark) a beautiful octopus demonstrates his camouflage ability. The rest of the talk is also worth watching.

You can also watch David Gallo’s talk here.

Newsletter: Racing into summer

Hi divers

Divers at Shark Alley, looking for cowsharks
Divers at Shark Alley, looking for cowsharks

We had pretty good conditions last weekend and did two dives at Long Beach on Saturday and two launches on Sunday. We had 4-6 metres visibility at Photographer’s Reef and about the same at Shark Alley. The sevengill cowsharks are scarce right now with very few sightings.

Octopus at Photographer's Reef
Octopus at Photographer’s Reef

This weekend

The weekend weather does not look altogether bad but there are a couple of events that may slow you down in getting to the dive sites:

  • Saturday: a cycling event from Simon’s Town station over Red Hill, around to Cape Point and back to Simon’s Town station – repeated several times over throughout the course of the day. Participants raise sponsorship for however many laps they do.
  • Sunday:  the Big Walk… there is a walk starting at 9am at Long Beach. Road closures shouldn’t be a big problem – just Fish Hoek main road to Muizenberg, and the Long Beach parking lot will be a bit crowded.

I won’t launch this weekend as I have students. We will be at the pool on Saturday doing Open Water and Rescue and will do the same on Sunday at Long Beach.

Baby klipfish at Long Beach
Baby klipfish at Long Beach

We attended a talk at the Fish Hoek library this evening on the Glencairn Barge, believed to have sunk in 1978. It appears no-one really knows its history! The speaker was from Underwater Surveys and showed some fascinating images of wrecks scanned using their very advanced (and expensive) downscan imaging system.

regards

Tony Lindeque
076 817 1099
www.learntodivetoday.co.za
www.learntodivetoday.co.za/blog/

Diving is addictive!

White Sharks – Migratory Patterns and Habitat Use

This post follows on from my review of Global Perspectives on the Biology and Life History of the White Shark. That book (a collection of scientific papers) is divided into three sections, and I’m going to highlight papers that I found particularly interesting in each of the sections. Here’s the first series of posts I did, on Biology, Behaviour and Physiology:

There are several known white shark “hotspots” around the world (of which South Africa has a couple) where fairly extensive work has been done to tag and monitor sharks that frequent these locations.

Fine-Scale Habitat Use by White Sharks at Guadalupe Island, Mexico – Domeier, Nasby-Lucas, Lam

Guadalupe Island, about 300 kilometres off the Mexican mainland in the north eastern Pacific Ocean, is one such hotspot. It is a pupping and haul-out (resting!) site for three kinds of seal and sea lion. The seals come and go, fluctuating by species throughout the year. The researchers found that the sharks moved around the island seasonally, positioning themselves near the current aggregation of whatever species of pinniped was peaking. They also noted that during certain months the sharks dived deeper around the island, possibly also corresponding to predation on a different kinds of seal.

Sex-Specific Migration Patterns and Sexual Segregation of Adult White Sharks, Carcharodon carcharias, in the Northeastern Pacific – Domeier, Nasby-Lucas

The Northeastern Pacific White Shark Shared Offshore Foraging Area (SOFA): A First Examination and Description from Ship Observations and Remote Sensing – Domeier, Nasby-Lucas, Palacios

White sharks tagged at both Guadalupe Island and in central California have been shown to spend time each year at a location known as the “shared offshore foraging area”, or SOFA for short. The first of these papers determined the seasonal pattern of shark presence at the SOFA. The males can spend as much as 9-10 months offshore, in a moderately concentrated area (95% of the tagged sharks stayed in an area of diameter 1,000 kilometres, so not THAT concentrated). The SOFA was observed to be a cetacean “dead zone” inhabited only by sperm whales and no other cetaceans. The female sharks did not spend much time in the SOFA, but instead roamed through a very large stretch of ocean that overlapped with it somewhat.

There are fairly extended periods of time when the sexes are completely segregated. The authors propose one or two reasons for this. One is that female white sharks grow much larger than the males, and thus have different energy requirements. This may cause them to forage elsewhere.

The second paper recounts the results gained from sailing a research vessel out to the SOFA, performing transects, scanning for marine animals, and analysing other aspects of the site. The vessel found the area to be characterised by downwelling, no major temperature shifts, very little plankton, and very little horizontal movement. It also found no small cetaceans, but identified sperm whales and three kinds of spawning squid. (White sharks are known to eat squid.) The presence of these apex predators (white sharks, sperm whales, squid) suggests that there’s a lot more biomass supported in the deeper water that wouldn’t be evident from a surface survey.

A New Life-History Hypothesis for White Sharks (Carcharodon carcharias) in the Northeastern Pacific – Domeier

The tagging studies performed at the Farallon Islands and at Guadalupe Island off Mexico have allowed a new hypothesis regarding the life history of white sharks in the north eastern Pacific. Domeier speculates that white sharks may begin their lives in the shallow waters of southern California and may spend their first year in the region. This corresponds to an area where the Monterey Bay Aquarium has acquired juvenile white sharks caught by fishermen for their exhibits.

As the young sharks get larger, they can tolerate cooler water and are thus able to dive deeper and migrate further. Their diet changes from fish and invertebrates to marine mammals such as seals. As they mature, the males begin an annual migration to either Guadalupe Island or to the Farallon Islands and surrounds, off central California. Males from both the aggregation areas visit the SOFA mentioned above, while females range more widely.

The females only visit the aggregation sites every second year, presumably because of an estimated 18 month gestation period during which they spend 15 months at sea. It is believed that mating takes place at these aggregation sites. The females then return to the coastal regions off southern California and Mexico, between May and August, to give birth. They then return to one of the aggregation sites.

This kind of synthesis of previous studies enables the identification of regions where sensitive white shark populations may exist, such as the pupping grounds off California.

~*~

Several papers in this section are devoted to the behaviour and movements of juvenile white sharks off Australia, with a view to better understanding their movements in order to minimise interactions with beach users.

Seasonal Sexual and Size Segregation of White Sharks, Carcharodon carcharias, at the Neptune Islands, South Australia – Robbins, Booth

The sexual and size differences between white sharks present at the Neptune Islands in southern Australia was studied by the authors. They found similar sexual segregation to that observed in the north eastern Pacific studies. They found that larger white sharks visited the islands during the austral winter and spring (June to September). The female sharks seemed to prefer warmer water temperatures, perhaps as an aid to embryonic development when they are pregnant. Far more male sharks than females were identified (for mature sharks, the male:female ratio was 12:1).

The Third Dimension: Vertical Habitat Use by White Sharks (Carcharodon carcharias) in New Zealand and in Oceanic and Tropical Waters of the Southwest Pacific Ocean – Francis, Duffy, Bonfil, Manning

The authors analysed the data from 25 white sharks tagged in New Zealand, as they commenced long-distance migrations across a wide range of habitat types to the south west Pacific Ocean. While on the continental shelf the sharks remained in water less than 50 metres deep (this counts as “shallow” if you’re a marine animal), but during the open ocean migration phases they alternated between being on the surface and doing dives to depths between 200 and 800 metres. One shark went to 1,200 metres. A reminder that it’s pretty much pitch dark down there once you get beyond about 200 metres!

Once they entered the tropical regions, the sharks remained in the top 75 metres of water but coninued to dive deeply. Their dives often corresponded to a 24 hour cycle, with the sharks spending more time diving during the day than at night. The reasons for this could be many, but the sharks may have been navigating at night, or feeding on the creatures that pursue the plankton migrating towards the surface in the darkness.

The behaviour varied widely among the tagged sharks, and more studies in other regions will enable better understanding of why the sharks behave as they do in the various ocean habitats.