Newsletter: The vibrant bay

Hi divers

The pictures today are all from our Mozambique trip, as Clare hasn’t taken any new photos since we got back. I hope it’s not too much hardship to look at turtles and potato bass!

Potato bass at Doodles
Potato bass at Doodles

False Bay has been alive this week with thousands of dolphins, orcas and sea birds. A record tuna weighing 107 kilograms was also caught in a fishing competition just off Cape Point. Sadly it wasn’t released, but it just goes to show how little we know of what is out there. I spent Monday in the bay on the boat and went from Cape Point to Muizenberg marking and finding waypoints – and there is just so much life in the ocean.

Loggerhead turtle at Drop Zone in southern Mozambique
Loggerhead turtle at Drop Zone in southern Mozambique

The weather has yet to settle into real winter diving mode and we have still not seen any 10 metre plus visibility diving as yet but I do think it’s close. We had 5 metres today and 15 degrees despite my expectations after the wind yesterday. Tomorrow blows a little harder in the right direction and I think both days will be good this weekend.

Weekend dives

We are going to take the boat out Saturday and Sunday and plan to do double tank dives both days.

You will get to choose the sites from this very short list: Atlantis, Photographer’s Reef, SAS Pietermaritzburg, Ark rock wrecks, Boat Rock and the Glencairn Barge or even seals (Partridge Point) or cowsharks… Majority rules apply!

Honeycomb stingray at Texas in southern Mozambique
Honeycomb stingray at Texas in southern Mozambique

Training

Currently we are busy with Nitrox, Advanced, Rescue and Divemaster as well as a few Open Water courses. This weekend would be a good time to start an Advanced course so mail me if you are interested.

regards

Tony Lindeque
076 817 1099
www.learntodivetoday.co.za
www.learntodivetoday.co.za/blog/

Diving is addictive!

Bookshelf: A Sea in Flames

A Sea in Flames: The Deepwater Horizon Oil Blowout – Carl Safina

A Sea in Flames
A Sea in Flames

The memory of the Deepwater Horizon oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico is fairly fresh, as it’s been exactly two years since the rig exploded. Eleven men were killed, and unimaginable quantities of crude oil leaked out into the fertile fishing and tourist area where the rig was drilling. The rig was drilling in water 1.5 kilometres deep, and during the course of exploratory drilling, had made contact with deposits of natural gas and oil at a depth of over 6 kilometres under the sea floor. When a pressure test (basically to establish whether the well had been sealed properly) failed, oil and gas shot out of the well at incredible volumes and pressure. It took four months for BP (the rig’s owners) and Transocean (the rig’s operator) to stop the oil gushing out of the well.

Carl Safina has written three other books – Song for the Blue Ocean, Voyage of the Turtle, and Eye of the Albatross – establishing himself as a lyrical, sensitive author with a deep love for the creatures he writes about. This book is a radical departure from that writing style. It was penned swiftly, while the crisis was unfolding. Safina seethes with rage, drips sarcasm, and does not bother to hide his contempt for BP, the coastguard, and the US government’s handling of the spill. BP in particular receives frequent tongue lashings, displaying astonishing ineptitude, dishonesty and even contempt for the ecological and human tragedy that the spill unleashed. BP chief Tony Hayward eventually stepped aside, but not before embarrassing himself and enraging both the horrified public and the US government. BP’s report on the disaster can be found here, along with some very sanitised and bright  (and digitally manipulated) images and videos. This clip from the US Coastguard shows the immensity of the fire that ignited when the rig exploded (it went out two days later, when the rig sank).

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3AvrlYfiJE&w=540]

There are ample other sources which describe the oil spill and its effects, the timeline of the spill, and the efforts made to stop the flow of oil. I will mention, however, what particularly struck me in reading this book.

First, it’s abundantly clear that while oil drilling and prospecting technology has progressed at an incredible rate over the last 30 years, cleanup and recovery equipment has not changed at all since 1970. Driven by the diminishing availability of oil reserves that are actually easily accessible, drilling has moved into the deep ocean and is a task of immense complexity and technological sophistication. As Safina observes, oil companies receive great rewards for finding and extracting new oil deposits. The risks, however, are almost entirely borne by the public and the environment, both of which suffer far greater losses when a spill occurs than the oil companies do.

Massive volumes of toxic chemical dispersants were sprayed onto the slick and injected into the plumes of oil under the ocean surface – the effects of these is unknown and has not been studied. The remainder of the relief effort involved floating booms (totally ineffective in the presence of waves or wind chop) as physical barriers, and manual cleanups of beaches and marshes. Disaster management plans for the Gulf of Mexico – a tropical environment inhabited by whale sharks, dolphins, turtles and shrimp – made mention of walrus and other creatures found only in Alaska. A lot of copy and paste, and very little thought, went into these plans.

Safina draws heavily (perhaps too heavily – this is very disappointing) on news reports of the spill, including much speculation about its extent and likely effects by journalists and media spokespeople. He describes the frustration and depression experienced by the inhabitants of Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi and the other areas affected by the spill, and the crushing uncertainty of whether the oil would wash up or pollute a given area. Ultimately most of the estimates of the spill’s effects were shown to be overwrought and overly pessimistic. Oil eating bacteria that occur naturally in the Gulf of Mexico (which is subject to natural oil seepage at the rate of a few thousand barrels per day – it’s an oil rich area with cracks in the seafloor that constantly admit tiny quantities of oil into the ocean) were able to consume part of the oil. Some of it evaporated naturally. Some of it was dispersed into droplets so small as to be invisible to the naked eye when mixed with seawater. A tiny amount was collected from the gushing well by vessels on the surface.

Much oil, however, was washed up on beaches, deposited on the seafloor or in marshes, and remains suspended in the water of the Gulf of Mexico. Thousands of sea birds, and hundreds of turtles and dolphins were oiled. Long-lived, slow growing creatures such as turtles, dolphins, and tuna will only show the effects that the spill has had on their populations in a decade or more’s time. Concerns that entire planktonic life cycle stages of creatures such as bluefin tuna were wiped out by the dispersant chemicals and low oxygen concentrations (caused by the growth of oil eating bacteria) will only be tested in years to come when the absence or diminution of a generation of tuna can be measured. Fish stocks in the gulf rebounded during the months in which the fishing grounds were closed, but fishermen are now reporting diminished catches, sickly and dying crabs, and stillborn dolphin calves as a matter of course. The oyster farming industry in the area has been all but wiped out. Consumer confidence in seafood from the affected area plummeted amid fears that fish and shellfish would be toxic or contaminated by oil and dispersant chemicals. Confidence has not recovered, and nor has tourism to the region.

While it seems that the worst case scenarios touted by the press during the spill were exaggerated (this opinion piece is an excellent analysis of the uncomfortable collision between scientists and the media), estimates of the spill’s extent proved to be very accurate. BP’s estimates of the rate of flow from the well were outright lies from the beginning, but mathematical models based on current, wind, and the area of ocean fouled by the oil over a given time period provided flow estimates that were later demonstrated to be spot on.

Safina’s primary conclusion is that we need to reduce our dependence on fossil fuels, starting immediately. Instead of pouring huge amounts of money into researching technology to reach ever more remote oil deposits, we should be channeling funds into clean alternative energy sources. He points out how we have lost any sense of the difference between price, cost and value (he writes a bit about the distinction here). We fail to recognise the value of the service provided by the world’s forests and oceans in absorbing carbon dioxide, for example, because they do not cost us anything in order to benefit from them. Thinking about the earth’s resources in these terms will enable us to be less cavalier about squandering the benefits they supply.

Safina also executes something of an about turn in his opinion of the US Coastguard’s handling of the spill. At various points as the disaster unfolded, it appeared that the coastguard was firmly in the pocket of BP, and was deferring to the criminal party in the management of the crime scene. A meeting with retired Admiral Thad Allen leads Safina to a more nuanced understanding of the events he witnessed, and his opinion of Allen’s handling of the catastrophe is much improved.

This book was written quickly, in the heat of emotion, and it’s very obvious. Even the title is somewhat overwrought, and I’m dubious about the merit of writing the entire book under a misconception that was only corrected at the eleventh hour by meeting with Admiral Allen. While Safina’s book provides an on the ground picture of what it was like to live among the communities that experienced the full effects of the spill, it isn’t easy to follow the chronology of the spill. He doesn’t go into much detail about what BP tried in order to stem the flow of oil (that information was, in any case, withheld from the public for the most part) and is not really concerned with a linear history of the spill. There is room for a reasoned, more clinical account of the spill and its effects, especially after enough time has passed to fully understand what those effects might be.

Some more opinions on the book can be found here and here. This article is a good read concerning the extent of the recovery in the region of the spill. Finally, this article describes the dramatically reduced catches of seafood in the Gulf region, and the horrible mutations and lesions that are being found in many of the species there.

You can purchase the book here if you’re in South Africa, and here if you’re not. If you want to read it on your Kindle, go here.

Dolphins in Hout Bay

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MB3TW3Ezoy4&w=540]

After a dive on the MV Aster we surfaced to find a pod of relaxed, loosely dispersed common dolphins in Hout Bay. They kept their distance and weren’t jumping or playing, but now and then one of them would rush under the boat or into its wake as we cruised slowly towards the harbour.

Clare took this video on her Sony DSC-TX5. In the background you can hear JP describing an experience with dolphins in Mozambique (although it’s probably better viewed with the sound off to block out the boat noises).

Ocean Adventurer at the V&A Waterfront

The Ocean Adventurer vessel at the Waterfront
The Ocean Adventurer vessel at the Waterfront

Tony and I seized the opportunity to try out the offering of the Two Oceans Aquarium‘s joint venture with Ocean Adventurer on Valentine’s Day… For reasons of convenience rather than romance! The boat-based marine eco-tour runs three times a day during the day, taking up to 40 passengers out into Table Bay in search of macrofauna such as birds, seals and dolphins, and also microfauna such as diatoms – which are examined on the boat’s microscope and projected onto two screens on deck. Since I work every weekday (and Tony often does too), and Tony works every weekend, it’s hard to find a daytime slot when we’re both available… But fortunately on Valentine’s Day the vessel went out for a special sunset cruise at 6 p.m.

The vessel is very fetching – it’s got twin hulls, very light, powered by two 70 horsepower engines (yup, that’s all!) and has beautiful clean lines and a stunning bright blue octopus writhing along the water line. I don’t know anything about boats but Tony has years of experience fixing, modifying and assembling them and he was impressed!

The engine block of the RMS Athens
The engine block of the RMS Athens

The cruise we went on was for an hour (the daytime ones last 90 minutes) and because it was evening we didn’t see much in the way of wildlife… But we did pass near the site of the wreck of the SS SA Seafarer (nothing to see). There are some photos of that wreck when it occurred here and here. We also saw the remains of the engine block of the RMS Athens sticking out of the water near the promenade.

We are hoping that Tony has a non-diving day one weekend, or that I can get a morning off work sometime to try out the full eco-tour experience. My great wish is to meet a sunfish, and at certain times of year these giant, gentle creatures are abundant in Table Bay. The guide on the boat recommended the 11 a.m. trip (the first one of the day) as the one on which the most abundant marine life is spotted.

The Ocean Adventurer vessel berthed near the Two Oceans Aquarium
The Ocean Adventurer vessel berthed near the Two Oceans Aquarium

Cetaceans in captivity

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pduhepvlDzs&w=540]

I’ve never seen a dolphin or orca show at an oceanarium, and, until fairly recently I wouldn’t have turned down the opportunity to watch one. Dolphins are beautiful, full of life and joy, and their cousins the killer whales – while slightly more sinister – are equally majestic.

I’ve changed my mind about dolphin shows (or, at least, formed an opinion), however, after reading up on the dolphin slaughter and capture in Taiji, Japan – subject of the documentary The Cove – and following some of the developments in the case of a trainer who was killed by an orca at Sea World in the United States last year.

You may not have a view on the matter of keeping cetaceans in captivity, or you may think it’s harmless. You may think it’s not even relevant to you as a South African, but there’s actually a dolphin show at uShaka Sea World in Durban – so these intelligent mammals are being kept captive right on our doorstep.

I encourage you to read this article, about the death of Dawn Brancheau, a trainer at Sea World in Orlando, Florida, and this article, which deals with the death of an orca trainer in the Canary Islands and with the issue more generally.

Wired also has an interview with a former killer whale trainer that highlights some of the physical and mental effects captivity has on these massive creatures. They are literally driven insane by being kept in captivity.

Please read about this – you ought to know.

Article: How stuff works on marine mammals and more

Here’s some more goodness from Howstuffworks.com… This time something on marine mammals:

And some other marine creatures:

Finally, some links on moving about in the ocean…

Newsletter: Shark love

Hi divers

First up, the bad news: there will be no diving in False Bay this weekend. (The Atlantic is a small possibility, maybe on Sunday, but we will wait and see.) The reasons for this will become clear as you read on.

Last weekend’s diving

Last weekend we did JP’s first sea dive at Long Beach in Simon’s Town. Conditions were fair, with visibility of about 4 metres and patches of cleaner water. There’s an album with some photos from last weekend on our facebook page, here. I was also in the sea at Shark Alley and Partridge Point early in the week, and conditions were patchy (about 4 metres visibility) and deteriorating owing to a massive, continuing plankton bloom.

Pelagic shark diving

The Shark Explorers boat
The Shark Explorers boat

Today I spent the day on the Shark Explorers boat, far out of sight of land, on the edge of the continental shelf at a location known as the “Tuna Grounds”, where the water is over 350 metres deep. We were diving with pelagic sharks – sharks like blues and makos that live in the open ocean. A tuna also popped in to say hello, as well as hundreds of seabirds including several albatross.

Black browed albatross
Black browed albatross

It’s a two hour boat ride out of Simon’s Town, looking for the warm Agulhas current, and although the sea was rough almost all the way there, the water went from chocolate brown in False Bay to green, to beautiful, deep blue. A small chum drum was placed in the water suspended from a buoy, and after about fifteen minutes the first shark arrived. We saw one mako shark, and a large number of blue sharks. We spent over an hour in the water – you descend to about 5 metres and hover within sight of the chum drum at all times. These underwater pictures were grabbed from the video footage I took today – more to follow!

A blue shark comes to investigate
A blue shark comes to investigate

I have done baited shark dives before – with tiger sharks in Aliwal Shoal, and more recently a cage dive with white sharks in Gansbaai. Today’s dive was a very different experience to Aliwal Shoal, where the sharks are sometimes whipped into a feeding frenzy and injure themselves biting on the chum drum. The situation can be very tense and uncomfortable for the divers and in fact a diver was recently bitten during one of these dives by a shark that (I think) was in feeding mode because of the chumming, and became confused by the diver’s hand and foot movements in the water.

Blue shark
Blue shark

Today’s sharks were attracted by the chum drum, but they stuck around because they were curious about the people in the water. They were very interactive, and investigated our cameras and dive gear, sometimes with gentle nibbles. Morne, the Shark Explorers owner, is extremely relaxed with these creatures and very knowledgeable about their habits. A lot of what he did in the water was to prevent the sharks from hurting themselves (for example by biting on the rope of the chum drum).

Dolphins in False Bay
Dolphins in False Bay

On the way back to Simon’s Town we encountered a pod of 400 or so common dolphins in False Bay, being pursued by a Brydes whale. We are very fortunate to live in such a rich environment that is bursting with health.

As you can imagine, good buoyancy control is essential for a dive like this – the bottom of the sea is so far below that no one is going to come and fetch you if you sink! Also, if you’re even slightly prone to seasickness I would suggest some Stugeron or similar… It’s a loooooong day on the boat. All of us carried SMBs and were instructed to surface and raise them immediately if we lost sight of the chum drum. The boat follows the buoy attached to the drum as it drifts in the (sometimes very strong) current. If you’d be interested in coming on a trip like this, please let me know so we can arrange a group – I have promised to take Clare with me next time, because she spent the day working in Excel while I was playing with sharks!

Weekend diving

As for the reasons why we won’t be in False Bay this weekend, I encourage you to study the following sequence of three photos taken out at sea, near Cape Point, and inside False Bay. I don’t want to dive in coffee… Do you? I have several Open Water students and Discover Scuba Diving candidates just itching to get into the water, but for your first sea diving experience I prefer to ensure excellent conditions.

I’ll send out text messages if there’s a chance of going on the boat to the Atlantic on Sunday, once he sends out a newsletter, or if False Bay miraculously clears up. If you don’t usually get these messages and would like to, please send me an email with your cell number and I’ll be sure to keep you in the loop.

regards

Tony Lindeque
076 817 1099
www.learntodivetoday.co.za
www.learntodivetoday.co.za/blog

Diving is addictive!

P.S. This blog is entered in the South African Blog Awards and we hope to use it to raise the profile of Cape Town diving a bit. We’d really appreciate your vote, if you enjoy the blog – to vote for us click here or on the banner at the top of the page in the right hand sidebar. You can only vote once, and if you’ve already done so then many thanks!

Newsletter: Spring diving

Hi divers

The spring conditions have been living up to expectations with some really good diving. We explored a new dive site last weekend and many people are calling this the best dive site in Cape Town. Personally I think the title of best dive site in Cape Town will always be tightly contested as there are just too many stunning sites to choose from. This new site, Atlantis, most certainly has more fish than I have ever seen in Cape Town, but the Fleur – when dived in clean water – still tops the leader board in my mind. Atlantis is however a stunning site with pinnacles, small swim-throughs and overhangs, nice walls and the tops of the pinnacles are at 5-6 metres so a safety stop can be done while cruising around the top of the reef where there is lots to see. The site also drops off to 29 metres on the sand so it is suitable for both Open Water divers and Advanced divers.

One of the pinnacles of Atlantis Reef rises to near the surface
One of the pinnacles of Atlantis Reef rises to near the surface

Very few would rate Long Beach very high but I have yet to dive a site that has surprised me as often as Long Beach has, with wonderful and weird creatures. I have seen devil rays, sharks, a John Dory, giant short tail stingrays, a snakelet, pipefish, cuttlefish, bobtail squid, toadfish, horsefish, seals, whales and dolphins to name but a few and sure I have seen many of these creatures elsewhere, but never all of them in one place. Then again I do dive there more often than other sites…

A knobbly anemone among sea fans, sea cucumbers and other invertebrate bounty
A knobbly anemone among sea fans, sea cucumbers and other invertebrate bounty

Last weekend we dived at Windmill Beach and had really good conditions, so we want to return there this weekend if the conditions hold. After the Atlantis and Windmill dives we went to Long Beach to complete Marc’s first ocean dive – well done Marc on a good dive exploring the barge wreck and fishing boat wreck! Congratulations are also due to Cecil, who successfully completed his Cavern and Introduction to Cave Diving courses with Buks Potgieter at Komati Springs.

Massive school of hottentot, fransmadam and other fish
Massive school of hottentot, fransmadam and other fish

Weekend diving

A cold front cruises in this weekend, late Saturday, bringing with it some swell. Saturday will be better for shore dives as the wind is more a northwester but too strong for boating. Sunday looks better for the boat and Grant plans to explore two new sites he has found. Please let me know if you’d like to join any of the dives.

Box sea jellies at Windmill Beach
Box sea jellies at Windmill Beach

Talks and stuff

Clare and I attended two talks last week at the Save Our Seas Shark Centre. One was by Sarah Fowler, on the challenges of shark conservation, and the other was by Mark Meekan and was about whale sharks. Both talks were fascinating and we are so enjoying expanding our minds this way. Tonight we are attending a talk at OMSAC about the WWF South African Sustainable Seafood Initiative (SASSI) program. The SASSI program empowers consumers to make responsible choices about the seafood they eat – there’s a bit more information here.

Setting off in good visibility at Windmill
Setting off in good visibility at Windmill

We all like to know what dive conditions are like when planning to go in the water – sometimes it’s a no-brainer, based on the weather, but other times it helps if someone actually gets in the water to have a look! With this in mind, two divers from the Somerset West/Gordon’s Bay area established a facebook group called Scuba Diving the Cape Peninsula, to promote diving in the Cape and provide a forum for sharing news and updates on current dive conditions. Clare is now helping them administer the group, and they’d appreciate some help getting off the ground! A moment’s thought (or, even less spent time reading facebook updates from dive operators!) will convince you that claims about dive conditions from someone who has a financial interest in you getting in the water should be taken with a pinch of salt. Please go and visit the group on facebook, click “Like”, and, when you’ve been diving, let everyone know where and what it was like! This can benefit all local divers and hopefully squeeze out some of the fairy tales about 10 metre visibility after a raging southeaster and 5 metre swell that get circulated daily!

Kelp forest at Windmill Beach
Kelp forest at Windmill Beach

See you in the water!

regards

Tony Lindeque
076 817 1099
www.learntodivetoday.co.za
www.learntodivetoday.co.za/blog

Diving is addictive!

Sea life: Dolphins

I have only had one experience of dolphins at sea before: a “swim with dolphins” circus off the south of Zanzibar in 2008. I found it very traumatic and refused to go in the water. A pod of wild dolphins had been corralled (there is no other word) by a group of boats off Kizimkazi, and when the boats got close enough (there was no regard for appropriate distances to approach these creatures or the ethics of trying to touch them) hordes of pale, roughly spherical, mostly German tourists leaped into the water clad – in most cases – in Speedos and snorkeling gear. The pod invariably dived at this point, and the process repeated itself.

I am glad to replace that morning in my memory with a more positive experience that we had on our doorstep in False Bay, this June. While we were completing a dive near Roman Rock lighthouse, Grant got a call to say that there was a lot of dolphin activity in the northern end of False Bay near Kalk Bay harbour. On our way back to Long Beach we headed in that direction, and were rewarded with the sight of a massive pod of about 500 long beaked common dolphins (Delphinus capensis) – many of them breaking the surface.

Long beaked common dolphin in False Bay
Long beaked common dolphin in False Bay

A group of them came close to the boat and swam along next to us, leaping and splashing in the bow wave. The general view of what the dolphins are doing when they come around the boat like this is that they are being friendly and wanting to play, but Tony explained to me that there is an alternate view, held by Angie of Dolphin Encountours in Ponta do Ouro. She believes that the adult dolphins do this as a diversionary tactic, because there are calves in the water nearby. They intend to distract or draw away what they perceive as a threatening entity, in most cases a boat filled with gawking humans!

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pduhepvlDzs&w=540]

Grant did not stop the boat, but drove us past the edge of the pod. The surface of the sea was boiling with cetaceans. Seeing such vitality, abundance and exuberance moved me immensely. I don’t own a single piece of dolphin-inscribed clothing, jewellery or wall decoration, and I still don’t want any, but this is an experience I will never, ever forget.