Dive sites: SS Clan Stuart

The Clan Stuart seen from the road
The Clan Stuart seen from the road

If you’ve ever driven to Simon’s Town along the False Bay coastal road, you’ll have passed the wreck of the SS Clan Stuart on your left. The engine block sticks out of the water at low tide, and only the highest spring tides come close to covering it. The steamer ran aground during a summer gale in late 1914 after dragging her anchor. She was carrying a cargo of coal, all of which was salvaged I think.

Tony getting the gear ready before the dive
Tony getting the gear ready before the dive

The site is quite exposed, and will never boast 20 metre visibility, but on a good day with a calm sea, low swell and the correct prevailing wind direction you can be very lucky (as we were)! The entry is quite hard work. The one we usually use is to park on the roadside outside the old oil refinery and naval graveyard, and kit up there. Walk across the road, climb the low brick wall and find a route down the dunes to the railway line. Take care as the railway line is now in use. Cross the tracks and use the large cement walkway/staircase to get down to the beach. The last step is high – I found it easier to go left over the big boulders on the way down, but on the way up this is too difficult.

Once on the beach, you can walk to opposite the engine block. The wreck runs nearly parallel with the shore about 40 metres in each direction from the engine block, so you’ll actually hit it almost certainly, wherever you get in. Watch out for the wave on the beach – sometimes it looks small, but with scuba kit on your back you’re heavy and unstable and in a big swell you can get nicely tumbled. Make sure your BCD is inflated before you brave the breakers – you might even want to go so far as to put your regulator in your mouth before you set out. As soon as you are through the waves, put your fins on and swim out into deeper water away from the surf zone. Don’t mess around here – it can spoil (or prematurely terminate) your dive!

Onefin electric ray
Onefin electric ray

The Clan Stuart was made of iron, and although she’s very broken up, much of her remains. The remains of boilers can be seen next to the engine block, and the ribs of the ship are clearly visible as you swim along her length. There are ragged bits of metal decking, and some bollards are clearly visible on the edges of the wreckage.

A fat peanut worm
A fat peanut worm

There is a lot to see here – beautiful invertebrate life – abalone, mussels, sea cucumbers, nudibranchs, worms – schools of fish (we saw blacktail seabream), shysharks, and of course the pleasure of swimming the length of a shipwreck! There are also ridges of sandstone to explore, and kelp covers parts of the wreck. Particularly around the engine block, the growth is very dense.

Bollards on the hull
Bollards on the hull

This is a good site for night dives, and seals are often spotted here which is very entertaining. The entry and exit can be a bit of hard work, but it’s well worth it and the depth (maximim 9 metres at high tide) makes it very suitable for training dives.

Kate with the buoy line in top to bottom visibility
Kate with the buoy line in top to bottom visibility

Dive date: 22 May 2011

Air temperature: 20 degrees

Water temperature: 14 degrees

Maximum depth: 7.6 metres

Visibility: 10 metres

Dive duration: 48 minutes

Dive sites: A Frame

Tony surveying the rocks at A Frame
Tony surveying the rocks at A Frame

Shore diving in Cape Town can feel quite adventurous, often requiring as much mountaineering skill (with 20 kilograms of kit on your back) as it does buoyancy control! A Frame (also called Oatlands Point) is one of the most special shore entries on the western False Bay coast, and we visited it on a recent cloudy Sunday with perfect sea conditions. It requires a bit of walking and a tiny bit of climbing, but it’s nowhere near as strenuous as a shore entry at Shark Alley, for example.

A Frame (Oatlands Point)
A Frame (Oatlands Point)

To reach A Frame, drive past Simon’s Town golf course and Fisherman’s Beach, and park – almost immediately after the beach – on the left hand side of the road between the two houses with interesting roof features (one has a solarium vibe going with some British flags, the other has a clock). One used to be able to cross the grass of an empty plot and walk straight down to the rocks, but that plot has been fenced off (with a white picket fence!) now, so one has to use the little path to the right of it, under the No Parking sign.

The entry that we usually use (the northern entry) is over a large piece of rough granite known as “slippery rock”. There’s a conveniently placed rock to hold onto when entering and exiting – basically you inflate your BCD, hold onto your fins, put your mask around your neck, and walk in as far as you can. Then either giant stride off the edge of the rock, or slide down on your bottom until you’re in the water (warning: this can be hard on your suit!). Put your fins on as soon as you are floating – you’ll be in 3 metres of water already so you won’t be able to stand. There’s a lot of kelp there so use it to keep still, and move slowly and steadily. The exit is similar – come as far as you can with fins on, take them off, stand up, watch the waves (if any) and grab onto the rock by the exit as soon as you can reach it.

When you climb in at A Frame you’ll be landing in a sandy basin surrounded by rocks. The depth is about 4 metres, and there’s not a lot on the sand, but it has a peculiar beauty to it and it’s very sheltered. The rocks are to the south and east are where your primary interest will lie, however.

The site is rich with invertebrate life – massive anemones of all colours of the rainbow, abalone, urchins, sea stars, nudibranchs and fairly prolific fish life characterise the area. A Frame is partly inside the Castle Rocks restricted zone which means no fishing or harvesting of marine life is allowed.

There are kelp forests around most of the rocks, and on the day we dived this site in May we had spectacular top to bottom visibility. My favourite part of A Frame is the large swim-through to the north of the big white rock that breaks the surface. This is a dog-leg cave formed by three or four huge rocks that almost meet at the top. There’s a narrow gap where your bubbles can escape (which I am grateful for, because none of the creatures in the cave are drowned in air then!) and three entrances/exits. Inside the swimthrough you’ll find urchins, anemones, nudibranchs, sea fans and lots of fish taking shelter. A torch is recommended. It’s short, not scary, and spectacularly beautiful. A huge orange wall sponge can be found at the spot we prefer to use as an exit – the opening opposite goes out into quite shallow water where you can get tossed about by the surge.

Top to bottom visibility in the kelp forest
Top to bottom visibility in the kelp forest
Tony waiting outside the swim through
Tony waiting outside the swim through

Dive date: 22 May 2011

Air temperature: 20 degrees

Water temperature: 14 degrees

Maximum depth: 7.3 metres

Visibility: 12 metres

Dive duration: 37 minutes

Klipfish outside the swim through
Klipfish outside the swim through

Sea life: Kelp

Ten metre tall kelp plants at Shark Alley near Pyramid Rock
Ten metre tall kelp plants at Shark Alley near Pyramid Rock

The South African west coast is characterised by the tall, beautiful brownish green sea plants called kelp. These plants thrive in cold (below 20 degrees celcius), nutrient-rich, highly aerated water, and the strong wave action of the Atlantic is thus a feature of their ideal habitat.

Sea bamboo at Long Beach
Sea bamboo at Long Beach

Much of the water at the Two Oceans Aquarium is filtered through the kelp forest exhibit before being transferred to other tanks in the facility. The kelp plants do a remarkable job of cleaning the water of ammonia and other waste products. The fact that there is a kelp forest exhibit in the TOA is remarkable – it’s a non-trivial undertaking to grow live kelp plants successfully in a confined environment. Read more about it here.

Lush kelp in the Atlantic
Lush kelp in the Atlantic

Three main species of kelp dominate the South African coast: sea bamboo (which is what we see mostly in Cape Town), split-fan kelp, and bladder kelp. Kelp plants are made up of a holdfast (which looks like a tangle of roots, but actually just clings to the rocks), a long stipe or stalk reaching upwards towards the surface, and the fronds, leaves or (most accurately) blades, which absorb nutrients from the water.

Sevengill cowshark disappears into the kelp at Shark Alley
Sevengill cowshark disappears into the kelp at Shark Alley

Kelp plants like rocky surfaces to anchor onto, so the dive sites that feature kelp forests are often rocky reefs and outcrops such as Fisherman’s Beach, Shark Alley, and most of the Atlantic sites. Sandy bottoms are no good for kelp – nothing to grip onto – which is why there’s not much of it at Long Beach.

Kelp growing at Long Beach
Kelp growing at Long Beach

At low tide you can often see the tips of the kelp stems sticking just out of the water. There are small air-filled floatation devices called pneumatocysts attached to each kelp plant, which keeps the blades close to the surface of the water where they can take advantage of the sunlight. Some species (like sea bamboo, which is in most of the photos I have here) have a single large pneumatocyst at the end of each stipe, and others have one at the base of each blade.

Kelp at Long Beach
Kelp at Long Beach

Kelp forests provide a habitat for countless creatures, from the fish that shelter among their blades, to the kelp limpets that are specially shaped to fit snugly against the kelp stipes, to the crabs that love to hide in the waving forests. Abalone feed on kelp, and sea urchins use drifting pieces of kelp blades as hats to shelter from the sun.

Kelp limpet at Fisherman's Beach
Kelp limpet at Fisherman's Beach

During our training at the Two Oceans Aquarium, we dissected a kelp holdfast, and the number of creatures that live in that tightly-packed root system is astonishing. We found tiny brittle stars, kelp crabs the size of your fingernail, hundreds of worms, isopods, mussels, and tiny limpets. There’s a whole ecosystem that subsists entirely within the holdfast.

Cape rock crab in the kelp at Long Beach
Cape rock crab in the kelp at Long Beach

There are also many creatures that call the higher-up portions of kelp plants their homes. Cape rock crabs often shelter in the fronds, and orange-clubbed nudibranchs feed on the bryzoans (moss animals) that form pretty lacy patterns on the kelp leaves.

Orange clubbed nudibranch feeding on bryzoans
Orange clubbed nudibranch feeding on bryzoans

Top shells (there are a couple of varieties) live and feed on the kelp fronds. They’re really hard to photograph (and they’re SO pretty) because the movement of the kelp in the water confuses my camera (and the photographer).

Tony shows me a top shell
Tony shows me a top shell

The kelp stipes themselves are a habitat for other creatures. Coraline algae encrusts them, and tiny barnacles, hydroids and sea plants form beautiful, detailed colonies that reward close examination.

Coraline algae on kelp stems at Fisherman's Beach
Coraline algae on kelp stems at Fisherman's Beach

These photos were taken at Fisherman’s Beach, which boasts particularly gorgeous kelp stems. Inside broken stipes, we’ve found isopods, sea lice and other creatures that shelter inside the hollow tubes.

The Silver Fox diving behind an encrusted kelp stem at Fisherman's Beach
The Silver Fox diving behind an encrusted kelp stem at Fisherman's Beach

Diving in a kelp forest for the first time can be scary – I was terrified I’d get wrapped in the kelp and be stuck there forever. In fact, if you move slowly, it’s very easy, and it’s REALLY hard to get anything wrapped around you to the extent that your movement is hindered. Kelp blades are smooth and just stroke over you gently. There’s no sinister thrashing or wrapping like a giant squid grasping you in its tentacles. Kelp is your friend!

In surgy conditions, kelp is useful to hang onto (this may not be good advice). The holdfasts attach to the rock unbelievably firmly, in order to withstand the buffeting that the kelp gets from the waves, so the stems can generally support 65 kilograms of diver as well!

I demonstrate how useful kelp is in surgy conditions, at A Frame
I demonstrate how useful kelp is in surgy conditions, at A Frame

Kelp is hugely useful to humans – it’s used in the production of plant fertilisers (mmm – breathe in the smell!). Alginate, a substance derived from kelp, is used to thicken custard, toothpaste, salad dressings, mayonnaise, ice cream and jelly. Kelp grows incredibly fast, so it’s an ideal crop. Sometimes you can see strips carved out of the kelp forests between Kommetjie and Misty Cliffs – that’s where one of the kelp product manufacturers has been harvesting. They move down the coast taking a strip at a time, and by the time they get back to the beginning the forest has recovered.

Kelp at Long Beach
Kelp at Long Beach

Sea life: Abalone

Also called perlemoen, abalone were among the creatures I was most excited to see when I started diving. As a child, I’d collect their shells on the beach at Betty’s Bay, and admire the mother of pearl interiors. I enjoyed ranking them in order of size, and specially loved the tiny, tiny shells the size of a thumbnail.

Empty abalone shell in Simon's Town Harbour
Empty abalone shell in Simon's Town harbour

The holes running along the edge of abalone shells are for respiration, used to eject water from the gills. Baby abalone are called spats, and abalone only reach reproductive maturity at the age of about seven years. It takes an abalone about 30 years to reach a size of 18 centimetres, and they become more and more prolific breeders as they increase in size. I am always awed to see a large specimen on a dive… Sometimes they’re almost as old as I am.

Walking abalone (with passengers) at Long Beach
Walking abalone (with passengers) at Long Beach

When we’ve dived in relatively undisturbed place, such as the North Battery Pipeline and Simon’s Town Harbour, we’ve found huge abalone clustered together. Fisherman’s Beach is also a favoured hide-out. They usually hold fast onto rocky outcrops, but I’ve seen them on the sand at Long Beach, motoring along leaving a wide trail in the sand behind them. They are preyed on by octopus, occasionally, but not much else.

Abalone in Simon's Town harbour
Abalone in Simon's Town harbour

They are herbivores, and eat kelp leaves – trapping them under their shells as they float by. Sometimes it’s a feast for the whole family if a single abalone manages to capture a large frond.

Abalone in the harbour at Simon's Town
Abalone in the harbour at Simon's Town

Abalone meat is considered an expensive delicacy in many other parts of the world, and particularly in Asia. The snails have large, fleshy feet which need to be pounded vigorously to tenderise them. I found this guy tipped over on a dive at Long Beach – I thought his foot was beautiful. I took this photo, and then turned him over. I hope he wasn’t sun tanning or something!

Upside down abalone
Upside down abalone (I turned him back over)

This page on the Department of Environmental Affairs website makes for sobering reading. For the last few years, no permits have been issued for perlemoen harvesting. They used to be managed on the same basis as West coast rock lobsters, but stocks are too low at the moment.

There are over 15 abalone farms in South Africa of which (at least) three abalone farms are in the Hermanus area: Abagold, TerraSan, and HK Abalone Farm. There are also several up the West Coast between Saldanha and St Helena Bay. such as Abulon Holdings. I’m itching to visit one of them, and you can be sure that I’ll update the blog when I do. As you can imagine, it’s a lucrative business, and several companies have sprung up to support the burgeoning mariculture (sea farming – compare the word agriculture, bearing in mind that mares means sea in Latin) business. One of them is Marifeed, which supplies abalone feed to the abalone farming industry.

Exploring: Fisherman’s Beach

We’ve driven past Fisherman’s Beach countless times on our way to stalk the baboons at Miller’s Point, and it’s been on the to do list to dive for a while. We’d heard that it was an easy dive akin to Long Beach, and a good training venue. Also, the little wave breaking on the bright white sand makes it look almost tropical – very inviting.

We ended up diving it the same day as we checked out Sunny Cove. It’s very pretty, with low rocky reefs on either side of the beach, and a wide strip of sand across the middle. There’s lots to explore, and it certainly isn’t as busy as Long Beach. It’s a short hop down the coast to A Frame, and the marine life is thus very similar. There’s a little bit of kelp, but it’s not dense and because of the layout of the site one tends to swim around rather than through it.

Tony’s camera misted up a bit in the warm car between dives, so he didn’t take many photos, but the invertebrate life poses very nicely and there is a lot of colour and light owing to the shallowness of the site.

Fisherman’s Beach is quite exposed, far more so than Long Beach, and we’ve seen that the wave on the beach can get angry in a big swell. Also, there’s a lot of fine sand in between the rocks, and I’d imagine this can get stirred up and decrease visibility quite a lot in inclement conditions. Even some of my careless fin kicks enveloped me in a cloud of particles – so this is perhaps a good place to take more advanced students (for dives three and four of an Open Water Course, for example).

There is parking across the road, and space to kit up on the pavement or on the grass above the beach. There is an easy staircase down to the sand, and although there is more wave activity than Long Beach most of the time, it’s not as intimidating as the Clan Stuart can be.

Fisherman's Beach
Fisherman’s Beach – walk down the beach and into the sea

Verdict: Potentially a good training site, well suited for macro photography, and an easy equipment testing location for when Long Beach is too busy or too familiar.

Dive date: 4 July 2010

Air temperature: 24 degrees

Water temperature: 13 degrees

Maximum depth: 8 metres

Visibility: 12 metres

Dive duration: 37 minutes

Exploring: Sunny Cove

Tony has been wanting to dive Sunny Cove practically since he first set foot in Cape Town, having read in an old book on South African dive spots (The Dive Sites of South Africa – Anton Koornhof) that seahorses had been found there in the sea grass. Tony loves seahorses.

I put my foot down, repeatedly, until it was the dead of winter and the Sharkspotters website told me that not a single great white had been seen patrolling the coast for a couple of months. Sunny Cove is at the end of Jagger Walk, the catwalk that runs along the western edge of Fish Hoek Bay. It’s the site of at least one fatal munching by a great white, and I didn’t want to take any chances.

Sunny Cove railway station
View from the bridge over the railway line towards the dive site

It’s a shore entry, and we parked on the road at the bottom of the steps over the railway line. It’s quite a strenuous walk over the bridge with all your kit on. We spent a while figuring out where to get in – you have to clamber over some rocks, and make your way through dense kelp before getting to a clear spot. Once we decided where to get in, we were glad to be wearing thick wetsuits, otherwise we would have been scraped and scratched quite liberally! There is a huge submerged concrete block just where we got in – at first I tried to swim over it, but realised it was in only a few centimetres of water, and made my way around it. (Fortunately there was no one on the shore with a camera!) Cape Town shore diving is hard on your kit.

Sunny Cove
Our entry point is on the far left, almost out of the photo, where the straight piece of rock sticks out.

The actual dive site is aptly named. The sun streams in through the kelp, and the sea floor looks a lot like Shark Alley near Pyramid Rock – lots and lots of urchins, with pink-encrusted rock formations. We saw a little bit of sea grass, and spent a lot of time examining it for signs of life, but didn’t even find a pipe fish, let alone seahorses! There’s a lot of invertebrate life on the rocks – feather stars, brittle stars, abalone – and we saw quite a few fish.

We did see the deep channel that the sharks probably use to get in and out of Fish Hoek Bay. We were hoping to spot the beacon that records movements by tagged sharks past Sunny Cove, but no luck there. We did not explore much to the south of our entry point – that’s on the to do list (along with more sea horse hunting) for another shark-free day.

Verdict: Shallow, easy dive but a fairly tricky entry and exit. Infrequently dived, so rather more lush and unspoiled than busier sites. Videos of our dive are here and here.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaxvdFG4Fdg&w=540]

Dive date: 4 July 2010

Air temperature: 21 degrees

Water temperature: 13 degrees

Maximum depth: 10 metres

Visibility: 6 metres

Dive duration: 32 minutes